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When you're talking champagne, it's not all bubbles.Matter of fact, it's not all champagne.

"Most of the world confuses that," said John Hannum, wine manager at Yankee Spirits in Attleboro.

Americans tend to call anything that fizzes into their glass champagne, when that distinction goes to sparkling wines produced exclusively in the Champagne region of France.

So Hannum prefers to say sparkling wines when talking about the wide selection of the bubbly stuff he has on display, from Champagne, Spain, Italy and California, among other places.

Sparkling wines are wines that have been fermented a second time, creating that fizz that tingles and excites, and has become a staple at holiday parties and other celebrations. Hannum also prefers not to talk about the "best" bubbly selections.

"Nothing says party like unpopping a cork," he said. "But asking what's the best is like asking who is my favorite child. 'What are good values?' is a better way of putting it."

So, what are the good values?

All the best sparkling wines are brut, or dry, Hannum said. Sweet sparklers have added sugar, which can cover the wine's natural flaws that give it its taste.

He also advises customers not be region snobs. There are several excellent sparkling wines from outside of Champagne, especially this year from Italy.

Also, there are quality wines at every price. Just don't go too inexpensive. A general rule is that the less expensive the wine, the less time it took to make.

The second fermentation is what makes the sparkling wine, but some less expensive bottles ferment twice in the vat, instead of in the bottle. Really inexpensive wines might just have carbon dioxide (bubbles) injected directly into the bottle.

Here are a few of Hannum's suggestions:

Under $10

Sugura Viuadas, Brut Reserva ($7.99) - A dry Spanish cavas, some consider this one exception to the notion that most sparkling wines from Spain are rather dull on the palate. It is self-noted for balance and delicacy. Hannum says its "toastiness" makes it sweet on the palate and one of his favorites.

$10 to $20

Gloria Ferrer, Sparkling Rose ($17) - From the Sonoma house whose sparkling wines are the only ones in California to be featured on the Wine Spectator Top 100 list.

Hannum likes this one because it has "a little more body" than others like it.

$20 to $30

Duval-Leroy, Brut Champagne ($24.99) - A smile lights up Hannum's face when he picks up a bottle of this champagne from the Duval-Leroy house in Vertus. According to thewinerdoctor.com, it is one of the largest land owners in Champagne.

The wine just received a 93 rating from Wine Spectator and for that it is, Hannum said, very reasonably priced.

He calls it an "excellent example" of sparkling wine.

Under $35

Tattinger - "That's one of my personal favorites," Hannum said. Tattinger is one of the last, he believes, family-owned houses in Champagne. They don't make an extra dry sparkling wine, but Hannum likes it for its "feminine" flavor, which comes from its heavy chardonnay content.

Others to consider:

Asti Moscato ($10.99) - From Italy, a very popular choice this year.

Rosa Regale Banfi ($19.99) - A sparkling Italian red, Hannum recommends this as a great dessert wine that goes especially well with chocolate cake.

REBECCA KEISTER can be reached at 508-236-0336 or at rkeister@thesunchronicle.com.