Last modified: Thursday, March 20, 2008 10:48 AM EDT 10/13/2004: Patrick Darr and Tom Marquardt, Wine Columnists. Photo by: J. Henson The Wine Guys: Looking for brand loyalty By Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr The Wine Guys Wine producers are fully aware of the importance of brand loyalty. A customer who keeps coming back for his favorite chardonnay year after year accounts for a significant portion of a producer's sales. And there is the likelihood that if the customer likes a $12 chardonnay, he might be willing to try the reserve chardonnay for $30. Although some producers strive to be associated with quality no matter what the price, most producers prefer their wines to be associated with value. In short, a $12 chardonnay should taste like it is worth more than that. As we pass from one vintage to another, we find ourselves counting on some of the same producers to make consistently good wines across the board - and not just its chardonnay. That's been our experience with Columbia Crest, for example, which despite its large production continues to make good wine for the price. The largest premium winery in Washington and an offspring of the giant Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, Columbia Crest has demonstrated time and again that it can make a $12 wine just as well as a $35 wine. We have been particularly fond of its $12 grand estates merlot, but consumers can enjoy its $8 Two Vines series - fruit-forward wines with easy tannins and simple structure. Laura Sorge, Columbia Crest's new chief winemaker, says her job is made easier with having access to quality fruit and limiting the use of expensive new oak. Striving for consistency keeps customers coming back. Here are some of the wines we enjoyed during a recent visit with her: Columbia Crest Grand Estates Riesling ($12). Tropical fruit and pear notes with balanced acidity and good varietal character. Columbia Crest Two Vines Shiraz 2004 ($8). Jammy raspberry and black cherry fruit with a soft mouthfeel and high on the pleasure meter. Hints of pepper and chocolate. Blended with a bit of Rhone varietals like viognier and grenache. Columbia Crest Grand Estates Merlot 2005 ($12). The winemaker goes to extreme to keep this wine soft on the palate but with decent complexity to make it a good match with game and beef. It is aged 14-16 months in a combination of new and old French and American oak. Classic cherry and chocolate flavors with good spice and a smooth finish. Columbia Crest Reserve Syrah 2005 ($30). Using grapes from the Horse Heaven Hills district, this Rhone-like syrah boasts white pepper and cocoa aromas followed by mocha and blueberry notes on the palate. A dash of viognier gives it a surprisingly burst of citrus notes on the nose. Columbia Crest Reserve Red Walter Clore 2003 ($34). The producer's top wine is named after the founding father of Washington's viticulture. It is a blend of noble Bordeaux grapes: cabernet sauvignon (57 percent), merlot and cabernet franc. Aged 24 months in new French oak. the wine is given special attention to extract complex, intense dark berry flavors with a hint of mint. It's still a value at $34. WINE PICKS Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Knights Valley 2002 ($30). Delightful fresh cherry nose with a whiff of new cut oak. Assertive black cherry flavor with notes of lead pencil, and apparent acidity and tannins. Try in 3-5 years and it won't disappoint, as the tannins soften. Beringer Alluvium Red Knights Valley 2004 ($30). An amazing mélange of clove, cinnamon, and herbs, in the nose. Black cherries and lead pencil flavors with good acidity but soft tannins make this beauty a current drinker. A very pleasing wine. Rosemount GSM McClaren Vale 2004 ($27). This is a terrifically pleasing glass of wine. Intense ripe blackberry and black raspberry nose with a hint of cedar. Very ripe fruity presence in the mouth with ripe black cherry and black raspberry flavors. A real easy to drink fruit driven beautiful wine that is well worth the price. Chateau St. Jean Robert Young Vineyard Chardonnay 2005 ($25). This is a great buy if you like richly textured chardonnay. A steady winner year-to-year, the Robert Young Vineyard produces a medium-body chardonnay with pear and citrus aromas followed by a creamy mouthfeel and notes of melon and tropical fruit. WINE OF THE WEEK Chateau Souverain Alexander Valley 2004 ($24). Beautiful dark color. Elegant black cherry nose with a hint of oak and mint. Complex and rich cherry flavors. Perfectly balanced with a nice finish. Great now but could easily age 2-3 years.