On a recent Sunday we shared with friends a couple dozen Italian wines - mostly well-aged from our private cellars - that reminded us of the breadth of Italy's deeply historic wine industry. There were old barolos, barberas, super Tuscans and more to show off the variety in quality. Italy once was not known for quality.

Despite the vast array of wines, those that really captured our attention were the amarones and ripassos from Valpolicella.

Amarone is not as well known as it should be, as evidenced by a screen writer's decision to change a wine selection in the movie "Silence of Lambs." Remember the scene in which cannibalist Hannibal Lecter says he enjoyed a chianti with one of his victim's livers? It was an amarone in the book, but the screenwriter chose a name more recognizable.

We can't recommend a chianti over an amarone when served with human livers, but we do admire the author's ability to recognize the versatility of amarone.

Despite this country's long history of winemaking, amarone wasn't officially recognized until 1953. Italian winemakers first developed a sweet version called recioto. When a wine producer accidentally fermented out the sugar, he had a dry version that eventually became amarone. Reciotos are still made but they are far less popular. If you consider yourself an adverturesome aficiando, you need to try these wines side by side.

Amarones are unique in that the grapes - corvina, rondinella and molinara - are first dried on racks for about three months. Once they shrivel, the flavors become more concentrated and intense. Fermentation happens slowly because the water content in these dried grapes has been reduced by half. If the fermentation gets stuck, acid levels in the wine can be volatile. Not to miss an opportunity to get the most out of grapes, the Italians use the unpressed grape skins of the amarone to make ripasso - sort of the next level.

Masi Winery was first to produce a ripasso in 1964 by adding the dried grapes to young wines and refermenting the result. Masi's Campofiorin is still the model for the richly textured and concentrated ripasso.

These wines are deceiving. Although full-bodied and sometimes high in alcohol, the rich texture and subtle tannins make them easy to drink on release. Because of the labor involved in making these wines, they are often expensive.

They can be easily matched with beef and wild game.

Here are some reliable labels to look for: Masi, Allegrini, Bertani, Zenato.

OTHER ITALIAN WINES

Here are some other Italian wines we recently discovered and recommend:

Villa Antinori Toscana 2003 ($22). This super tuscan is a blend of sangiovese (60 percent), cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah. Fat in flavor and full-bodied, it bursts with serious dark fruit flavors and has hints of sweet vanillin oak and chocolate.

Tormaresca Masseria Maime 2003 ($30). Made from negro amaro grapes grown in the Apulia region, this great wine has ripe plum and blackberry flavor with sturdy tannins that suggest cellaring. Tormaresca Chardonnay 2006 ($12). From Puglia, this wine shows that Italy can make a chardonnay as good as any country. Apple and pear flavors dominate. Good acidity to make it a nice match with food.

Villa Antinori Pian delle Vigne 2001 ($60). This is a wine to buy for cellaring even at this price. From Brunello di Montalcino, it is made entirely from sangiovese grapes and sports a huge body. Complex cherry and raspberry flavor with a touch of coffee and a long finish.

WINE OF THE WEEK

Santa Cristina Pinot Grigio 2006 ($15). We find pinot grigio to be a hit-and-miss proposition, so we are as disappointed as we are impressed. This one, though, was impressive. Generous peach and apple flavors with enough acidity to make it a good food match.