---

WOONSOCKET, R.I. - Last summer, when a friend suggested spending our Thursday evening on Main Street in Woonsocket, I looked at her with disbelief. The northern Rhode Island city hasn't always enjoyed the best reputation, never mind being a "destination" for an evening out. But when she informed me that Woonsocket had really cleaned up its act, I agreed to give it a try - and was pleasantly surprised.

We dined at Vintage, a classy restaurant that serves "new American cuisine." With dishes ranging from filet mignon to flatbread pizza, two spacious dining floors, a lounge and bar with plasma televisions and an outside upper-level deck, Vintage brings formal and casual dining together under one roof. It has the look of a renovated mill but is actually a brand-new building, with brick walls, wood-plank ceilings and visible overhead heating vents. From the deck, you get a great view of historic Market Square. Vintage is a fine dining establishment, with sleek, modern decor, five-course meals, extensive wine list and live entertainment several nights a week. It's obvious why some people are calling it the best restaurant between Boston and Providence after just two years.

More recently, I made a day trip to Woonsocket to see what else the city has to offer.

Located along the banks of the Blackstone River, the city's French-Canadian roots long ago earned it the title "La ville la plus française aux États-Unis," or "The most French city in America."

Main Street was first developed as the commercial, financial, and cultural center of Woonsocket. As the textile business declined after World War II, so did Main Street. But since 1990, the Woonsocket Main Street-Riverfront Initiative, directed by Jeffrey Polucha, has transformed the area and revived its historical and cultural essence. Main Street's most-visited locations are the Museum of Work and Culture in Market Square at one end and the restored Stadium Theatre in Monument Square at the other.

Located in a former textile mill, the Museum of Work and Culture's interactive exhibits tell the tale of the French-Canadian immigrants who left Quebec during the Industrial Revolution to work in Woonsocket. There are walk-through displays of an industrial farmhouse, textile union hall, classroom and mill floor, hundreds of photos, audio presentations, and hands-on activities.

When The Stadium Theatre was built in 1926, it was recognized as one of the finest theaters in the country, but a private owner shut it down in the 1970s. The Save Our Stadium Committee purchased the landmark theater in 1991 and set about having it restored. The theater played host to the premiere of the Farrelly Brothers film "There's Something about Mary" in 1998, and in 2001, on its 75th anniversary, it formally re-opened to the public with its original Wurlitzer pipe organ still in place. The architecture, artwork and design of the theater's lobby alone make it worth visiting, but it also plays host to concerts, plays, musicals, movies, comedy shows and other events.

Between the museum and the theater, Main Street is lined with historic brick buildings that have been transformed into shops, restaurants, and lofts. A mural reading "Bienvenu à Woonsocket" covers the side of one building as a reminder of Woonsocket's French-Canadian heritage. This area has also become known as the arts and entertainment district, and live music can be found almost any night of the week.

With numerous art and antiques shops, chic boutiques, book and music stores, bakeries, bars, and other specialty spots, Main Street is perfect for browsing. Don't miss GiGi's Global Specialty Art and Gifts and Best Buds Flowers and Gifts, two shops with items you probably won't find elsewhere. Also be sure to visit The Cakery, a Woonsocket favorite for homemade sweets. The seats are very comfy and The Cakery invites customers to stay and admire local student artwork on display.

During the summer, Summer Cruizin' Main Street is held every Wednesday night. About 5:15 p.m., Main Street is closed off for a car show with live music, food, raffles and other fun activities free of charge. On a nice Wednesday evening, up to 150 cars both old and new fill Main Street and nearby parking lots, and thousands of people flock to see them, said Polucha during a tour he gave me.

Behind the Work and Culture Museum is River Island Park which offers walking paths along the Blackstone River, a canoe ramp, spots for fishing or bird watching, a bandstand for summer concerts and a rink for skating in the winter. It is also the site of the Riverfest Canoe Race in May and the French Farmers' Market in September. If you want to check out river further, the Blackstone Valley Explorer offers boat tours from August to November. The tours are a relaxing way to see several local landmarks that are important to Woonsocket's past and present.

After exploring the history of Woonsocket, you can grab a meal at one of the many restaurants along Main Street. Across from the Museum of Work and Culture is the family owned and reasonably priced Ye Olde English Fish & Chips. Many Rhode Islanders rate it the best fish and chips in the area, Palucha said.

If you're looking for something to eat on the run or post-midnight, try New York Lunch on Main Street. They make New York-style hot wieners the authentic way. From the sidewalk you can watch the "wiener man" stationed at the grill arrange wieners down the length of his forearm. If you ask for them "all the way," he uses a long spoon to drizzle hot chili on each, and then adds onions and celery salt.

The only place that you can find both egg rolls and jazz under one roof is at Chan's Fine Oriental Dining. In an elegant, yet relaxed atmosphere, Chan's offers Chinese cuisine including the Cantonese, Szechuan, Hunan, Mandarin and the Shanghai styles. It is also home to the renowned Jazz and Blues Concert Series every weekend. "Something About Mary" isn't the only taste of Hollywood that Woonsocket has experienced. Another Farrelly Brothers film, "Stuck on You" starring Matt Damon, premiered at The Stadium Theatre in 2003, and Richard Gere is currently finishing up filming "Hachiko: A Dog's Story" in and around Woonsocket.